I was skeptical but I tried both and I do think the regular cocoa powder made for a more tender, if not as dark, cake in this instance. I typically use Dutch-process exclusively as I greatly prefer the dark color it gives to finished baked goods. The recipe I used, with a few modifications, was from Serious Eats and is adamant about using regular, not Dutch-process, cocoa powder. The cake follows the standard angel food techniques – whipping the whites to stiff peak and folding in the dry ingredients then baking in an ungreased tube pan. Since it is the Month of Everything Chocolate, I decided to make a chocolate version and the enormous bowl of oranges and clementines on the kitchen table, another project remnant, begged to be included. I needed an egg white heavy recipe and nothing uses up excess whites like an angel food cake. There was a stash of egg whites in the freezer, leftovers from a consulting project that used an ungodly amount of egg yolks. The other day I decided to turn this delightful combination into a cake and maybe candy a little citrus in memory of my Grandma. Oh how I miss Marshall Fields and their beautiful candy department! It’s just not the same these days, not even close. On my visits to Chicago, we’d wander down to the basement of Marshall Fields and find our way among the beautiful candy counters, looking for just the right treats. She loved strips of candied orange rind but only the real stuff – no terrible orange jelly strips in cheap, waxy chocolate for her! Oh no, it was the expensive, slowly candied rind dipped in high quality dark chocolate or nothing. It’s delicious, particularly when well executed and dipped in dark chocolate. I have a fascination with candied citrus.
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